PLASTERING is highly skilled
and often best left to the
professionals –especially if
you have a large area to cover.If,
however,it ’s a relatively small
area,it ’s possible to patch plaster
yourself –or at least to have a go.
There are various sorts of plaster
available,so ask at your local DIY
store or builders ’merchant if
you ’re not sure which one to use.
If it ’s suitable for your job,try
using a plaster repair product as
they are specially formulated to
be easier to apply and smooth out
than conventional plaster.
The first step with any repair is to
remove all the loose material in and
around the area you ’re plastering.
If the plaster ’s blown,in other
words no longer adhering to the
wall and is springy to the touch
(prod it gently with your fingertips
and if it moves,it ’s blown),you need
to remove it until you hit plaster
that ’s firmly attached to the wall.
Use a wire brush
to clean the area
thoroughly and
remove any
remaining
loose material.
If you ’re using
a plaster
product that
you mix yourself,
rather than a
pre-mixed one,
mix it following
the manufacturer ’s
instructions until
it ’s thick,creamy
and lump-free.
Some pre-mixed
products can be
used straight
from the tub,
but plaster that
you ’ve mixed
yourself should
be put on a spot
board (a flat
board,about a
metre square,placed at waist
height on a stable base),which
you ’ve dampened first.
You should also dampen the area
of wall that you ’re repairing.
Next transfer some of the plaster
onto a hawk (the small board you
hold and apply the plaster from)
with your trowel.
Ensuring that you ’ve protected the
floor from any plaster that doesn ’t
stay on the wall,angle the hawk
towards you and,in a flowing
motion,slide half of the plaster
offonto the trowel.
Press the plaster into the hole and
move the trowel up the wall,slowly
flattening it –but not completely
as this can pull the plaster off.
Continue until the hole is
overfilled slightly,but make sure
not to overwork the plaster.
The next stage is ruling off.To do
this,take a tool called a straight
edge or darby and move it up over
the patch of plaster in a side-to-side
motion.If you see any dips in the
repair,fill with a little plaster and
rule offagain.
Depending on how warm the room
is,the plaster should start to set
after about three quarters of an
hour.This is the time to go over
it with a trowel (which you ’ve
dampened slightly)to smooth it
out further.
Half an hour later,splash water on
the plaster and again smooth out
gently with a damp trowel.Once
it ’s dry,you can apply a coat of
finishing plaster,unless the plaster
you ’re using doesn ’t require one.
For a really deep hole,you ’ll need
to apply two or more layers of
plaster or plaster repair.Build
this up in layers no more than
50mm thick.
When a layer is setting,scratch
the surface to enable the next layer
to adhere better.
Once you ’ve built up enough layers,
rule offand apply a finishing coat,
if necessary,as before.
Unless the manufacturer ’s
instructions say otherwise,leave
the plaster to dry out for a couple
of weeks before you seal it and
start decorating.
I ’ve got Artex on my ceilings and have no
idea of how to remove it.Is there an easy
way or do I have to get a plasterer in to
cover over it?
The easiest solution is to try and steam it
off.Using a wallpaper steam stripper hold
the steam plate up to the Artex for about
a minute to soften it.Once it ’s soft,simply
lift it off using a wallpaper scraper.If the
Artex doesn ’t budge,just hold the steam
plate there longer and it should come
off.Your next problem is what to do
about the state of the ceiling underneath.
This approach isn ’t always appropriate,
though.Seek professional advice if you
think the Artex contains asbestos or you
think it was applied to an unsound ceiling
or over plasterboard.
